<p>"to be a resident or a visitor to Orkney is to be struck by many things ? everywhere, loch, sea, and peaty burn separate the land with fingers of sparkling water. Dressed in a hundred greens and bonneted with browns and purples, the hills gently curve whalelike against the surface of an enormous sky; but even a day in Orkney will reveal a secret, that this vista is merely a backcloth and stage for the real players in this glorious drama, the e...