<p>In a ruined temple on the Nile, Anthony Sattin sees a woman praying to the gods of ancient Egypt to bless her with a child. Later in central Cairo he experiences the exuberant celebrations of a saint's day and hears their stony condemnation by an Islamist. The ancient continues to rub up against the modern just as dramatically as when Flaubert wrote, 'Egypt is a wonderful place for contrasts -splendid things gleam in the dust.'In the company o...